Five years ago, Van Cleef & Arpels obtained the Lesotho Legend, the fifth largest rough stone, sourced from the Letšeng Diamond Mine, located 3,200m above sea level in the Maloti Mountains.
A project beginning with this natural wonder resulted in the "Legend Of Diamonds -- 25 Mystery Set Jewels'' collection.
The Lesotho Legend was exceptional for its weight of 910 carats, a perfect D colour and beautiful crystallisation. Moreover, its highly sought-after Type 2A chemical composition renders the purest and great optical clarity.
The rough stone was analysed by Antwerp-based Diamcad, who planned the cutting and faceting of each gem.
The combination of gems was decided with the help of 3D software that showed each cut diamond inside the rough stone. Once mapped, it was sawn to shape the individual gemstones.
The diamond cutter then worked on each stone, whose facets were polished to bring out its full brilliance. These various steps gave 67 diamonds totalling 441.75 carats, almost half of the original rough stone's weight.
"We had to envision creations that embodied Maison's style, that highlighted its expertise, such as the Mystery Set technique, while also enhancing these diamonds which, at that point, had not yet taken their final shape. The challenge was to design harmonious pieces that brought all these elements together without one overshadowing the others," said Thomas Pozsgai, director of the Van Cleef & Arpels Design Studio.
Developed by the Paris-based maison in the 1930s, the Mystery Set technique conceals the metal by fitting cut stones one by one on gold rails while the Individual Mystery Set differs in the stones being held on their own.
The 67 diamonds in different cuts found their spot on the 25 high-jewellery pieces.
The Atours Mystérieux transformable necklace features the heaviest 79.35-carat diamond with an oval cut and 57 facets, which multiply its brilliance against rubies.
Another oval-cut diamond of 30.61-carat sparkles on the Volutes Mystérieuses necklace. The matching earrings also boast two oval diamonds of 15.52 and 15.50 carats that can be added to the ribbons on the necklace.
The emerald cut was chosen for diamonds of 51.14 and 10.52 carats on the Collerette Mystérieuse necklace, whose line of pink sapphires and square-cut diamonds evoke delicate lace. A ring is the second home to the detachable largest diamond from the graphic necklace.
The Asscher cut refers to an octagonal shape, which multiplies reflections inside the stone, revealing its fire.
Facing each other on the Entrelacs Mystérieux bracelet, two Asscher-cut diamonds perfectly match in terms of colour, purity, and brilliance as well as the identical weight of 10.88 carats.
Crossover collars on evening gowns from the 1950s inspire the Chevron Mystérieux necklace embellished with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.
Measuring over 31 carats, the first pear-cut diamond hangs in the centre of the piece, flanked by the other two, weighing 12.18 and 12.07 carats.
The high-jewellery collection showcases Van Cleef & Arpels' technical ingenuity, particularly in the Chevron Mystérieux necklace, which offers six options for metamorphosis. For instance, the central motif can be slipped onto a chain and the other two diamonds can be transferred to earrings.
