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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie,Ben McCormack and Joanna Taylor

Take it outside: the best alfresco eating in London

The Provençal Rosé Paradox is when a middling rosé delivers earth-shattering results somewhere on the south coast of France but tastes like Blossom Hill back in foggy England. At any one of these terraces, ignore this rule: each is blessed, leafy, sun-kissed (let’s hope) and charming; where the world’s ills are quickly forgotten and replaced only with good drinking and fine eating. From Soho rooftops to palatial Mayfair enclaves, these restaurants and bars are among London’s most suited to alfresco. Each a place to while away afternoons this summer. And, yes, many are covered, but that’s because we are, after all, in England, not Provence.

Claridge’s

Thin in form but not in offering, the Claridge’s terrace is a place to drink lashings of Château d’Esclans Les Clans 2022 or 2021, depending on your bank balance, and to sample one of London’s most inventive new snacks, the “chef’s crumpet selection”, a changing fun-wheel of morsels atop spongy crumpets.

Claridge’s, Brook Street, W1, claridges.co.uk

The Devonshire

“It won’t be bookable because of the vagaries of the British weather, the Devonshire’s landlord Oisín Rogers told the Standard. “But if you’re already booked and the roof is open, you’ll be able to make a decision.” This is the rooftop at the world’s most famous pub (you read it here first), a place to gaze upon bustling Soho streets while drinking the finest pint of Guinness in the country with a plate of buttery langoustines. Wine is also encouraged.

17 Denman Street, W1, devonshiresoho.co.uk

Luca

(Joe Woodhouse)

Desperate for an Italian escape? Look no further. Complete with retractable roof and crackling fireplace to fend off the cold and rain, this cobblestone-clad courtyard is a divine place to enjoy Parmesan fries, rigatoni with pork sausage ragù, and tiramisu. That’s an order.

88 St John Street, EC1, luca.restaurant

Dovetale

A gift from Tom Sellers, the man behind the famed Restaurant Story, this might not be the most affordable terrace to eat at in town but it’s certainly one of the prettiest. This uber-chic space brings oysters, burrata (if that’s your thing), juicy roast chicken and plenty of fizz. And there’s a build-your-own knickerbocker glory trolley.

3 Berkeley Street, W1, 1hotels.com

Fallow

This fabulous terrace offers both Jack Croft and William Murray’s sustainable dishes and some of London’s best frozen margaritas. Highlights include a silky mushroom parfait, flame-grilled smoked cod’s head, and an aged ex-dairy cow burger of supreme design.

52 Haymarket, SW1, fallowrestaurant.com

Trivet

(Trivet)

Boasting two Michelin stars but none of the fine-dining pomp, Trivet is the height of reliable, laidback luxury. Tucked away on a serene street in Bermondsey, chef Jonny Lake and sommelier Isa Bal promise plates such as Cornish sea bass crudo, ox tongue buns, and crisp wings in herby panko crumbs with honey mayonnaise alongside a list of more than 450 wines.

36 Snowsfields, SE1, trivetrestaurant.co.uk

Bentley’s

An oldie but a goodie, you can’t go wrong with a trip to Richard Corrigan’s fish-forward institution. From the freshest oysters to startlingly deep bisque, the famous fish pie to platters of fruits de mer, here you’ll find just about everything one could want, as well as a divine list of sparkling wines.

11-15 Swallow Street, W1, bentleys.org

Westerns Laundry

Sucker for natural wine? This Highbury neo-bistro boasts an excellent selection of low-intervention bottles and small plates rustled up using regenerative produce. The menu changes in a flash, but keep your eyes peeled for recent gems such as Sicilian salsiccia, labneh-stuffed peppers, and calamari.

34 Drayton Park, N5, westernslaundry.com

Terrazza Focaccia at Allegra

(Press handout)

As the name suggests, the famed Tuscan bread takes centre stage here, with four “hero sandwiches” from Patrick Powell on the menu, including a fried chicken club and a vegetarian option made with stracciatella and Mediterranean vegetables. There are good wines, too, and jazzy ice cream sundaes courtesy of pastry chef Kelly Cullen.

Manhattan Loft Gardens, 22 International Way, E20, thestratford.com

Llama Inn

Perched above the Hoxton in Shoreditch is Llama Inn, a New York import serving outstanding Peruvian food. On the terrace, pisco sours, snacks and plenty of sunshine, weather willing, thanks to its south-facing position. Lamb empanadas, leeks with gazpacho, cod and yuca and sugar snap peas match the rosé and cocktails.

1 Willow Street, EC2, llamainnlondon.com

Los Mochis

Find the latest branch of Mochis near Liverpool Street. It’s an alfresco space rising high above Broadgate Circle, an enormous, 3,000 sq ft spot with a landscape of views from St Paul’s to the London Eye. On the menu, Los Mochis’ Mexican-Japanese food — plenty of tacos — and a vast selection of tequila and mezcal. Enjoy the 3am licence.

9th Floor, 100 Liverpool Street, EC2, losmochis.co.uk

Seabird

(Snowbird at Seabird)

Seabird, the jaunty seafood palace above The Hoxton in Southwark, became Casa Seabird in late May, shifting emphasis towards Ibizan summers. And so, city views with Mediterranean-inspired food and refreshing tequila-based drinks from maker Casamigos. To the soundtrack of resident DJs — Thursday to Saturday — guests perch on a terrace full of tropical plants and drink frozen palomitas.

14th Floor, 40 Blackfriars Road, SE1, seabirdlondon.com

TT Liquor

TT Liquor is a sweeping east London attraction, with a cellar bar, cinema room, and food and drink offerings split across multiple floors. On the roof is a menu of snacks, crudo, and wood-fired sharing plates, among them barbecued pork belly, grilled Cornish cod, lamb koftes with sumac, onions and garlic. Find too well-crafted cocktails, a hefty wine list and beers.

17B Kingsland Road, E2, tt-london.co.uk

Lord Napier Star

Next to the canal, Hackney Wick jingles with the sound of clinking pints at the Crate Brewery, with the Alfred Le Roy cocktail barge especially enchanting when its roof is pulled back. Around the corner is the Lord Napier Star, the pub once famous for its dilapidation. Now restored, the graffiti-covered boozer brings pints galore and cheap margs.

25 White Post Lane, E9, lordnapierstar.co.uk

The Culpeper

(Press handout)

Little tops a pint in the sun: the Culpeper’s rooftop is built for just that. Ever-popular, the garden vibe here is made by the produce growing around the tables. Come hungry for snacks like cheese croquettes and make use of well-pulled cask ales. Don’t fancy the stairs? Downstairs, people spill into the street.

40 Commercial Street, E1, theculpeper.com

Frank’s

Out of all the Peckham rooftops repurposed for pale ale at sundown, this one shines among the brightest. Frank’s was among the first bars to bring Negronis south of the river, and the views are ace, which explains its long-held pulling power: you may well lose unintended hours here.

7th-10th Floor Multi Storey Car Park, 95A Rye Lane, SE15, boldtendencies.com/franks-cafe

Netil360

Situated in the heart of Hackney, Netil 360 is a no-fuss, no-frills east London hideaway. The indoor constituent of the bar appears to be made largely of chipboard, but beyond that is a seriously relaxed suntrap of an alfresco terrace. The drinks menu touts largely local breweries and distilleries, including Truman’s and Five Points.

1 Westgate Street, E8, netil360.com

Hoppers King’s Cross

(Hoppers)

The redeveloped King’s Cross is not short of appealing alfresco — the terraces at Coal Office, Parrillan and Vinoteca all get a thumbs up — but Hoppers is the nicest, not least because the view over the Regent’s Canal to the vibrant goings-on of Granary Square. Expect namesake hoppers, dosas, mutton rolls, butter squid and lamb shank biryani.

Unit 3, 4 Pancras Square, N1, hopperslondon.com

Forza Wine

Forza Win, the modern and fun Italian restaurant where the pasta is beautiful and where custard coffee (Custardo™) was born, may have moved to Camberwell, but Forza Wine, the bar and small plates operation, remains in SE15. It is an aperitivo haven and a place for fritto misto, tomatoes flush with garlic and olive oil, and bream with pickled fennel.

The Rooftop, 133A Rye Lane, SE15, forzawine.com

The Rooftop at The Standard

The Standard is one of London’s coolest hotels and the Rooftop is a hit with celebs. Visit any day and there will be people drinking Champagne, admiring from all angles a happy stretch of north London. There’s a faint New York vibe. Just ignore the astroturf.

10 Argyle Street, WC1, standardhotels.com

Sam’s Riverside

(Press handout)

The terrace is tucked to one side of the restaurant, which is no bad thing when it means that a passing rollerblader won’t come crashing off the Thames Path and into one’s lunch. Still, the river (trees swaying on the opposite bank) is very much there. Simple things done well is the kitchen’s mantra — beef tartare, maybe, or lobster rolls. Top cocktails encourage lingering.

1 Crisp Road, W6, samsriverside.co.uk

Trinity

Small is beautiful at Trinity, where the tiny terrace affords sylvan views of Clapham Common. Though all eyes are just as likely to be on the plates of Michelin-starred food coming out of chef Adam Byatt’s kitchen. On the menu, crispy rice with salmon, a top prawn cocktail, chicken Milanese and flat iron steak.

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