
On Islamabad’s outskirts, burly men bind together in a scrum on a rugby pitch that has seen better days. The sign bearing the club’s name is worn. The floodlights are too costly to use, given high electricity prices and the paltry $135 total that the club earns in membership fees every month.
Watching the players, coach Mohammed Zahir Uddin said ruefully: “There’s only one game in Pakistan.”