Large, scented tomatoes are beginning to flood the markets near me, and their presence brings back memories of Mexico. On a trip up north to Ensenada, a famous fishing port, I became obsessed with the Spanish-style arroz dishes studded with fresh shellfish and seafood of every shape and size. The clams! The crab! On another trip, we sat by the sea for a birthday lunch with the waves crashing on to the sand, while we were presented with a grilled prawn arroz, where the grains were steeped in rich tomato and grilled prawn umami that it was giddying. A cold custard with roast peaches will prolong the fantasy – a lunch that conjures up far away places that you can dream about from home.
