Lviv’s opera house is a magnificent, Habsburg-era froth of red velvet, gilded cornicing and writhing caryatids. And to the casual observer, the audience, as they settled into their seats, could have been opera lovers anywhere in Europe – but for a few small details.
First, the presence of uniformed soldiers in the boxes and prime seats of the stalls. Second, the pre-show announcement that, after asking patrons to switch off their phones, offered instructions on what to do in the event of an air raid alert.
