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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Joanna Taylor

Soho restaurant Paradise is getting a major reboot

Paradise has graced Soho with good vibes, exceptional cocktails and, crucially, an unforgettable taste of Sri Lanka since 2019. Now, however, despite gaining a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its delectable fare, the restaurant’s founder Dom Fernando is in the mood for change, hoping to create “a more relaxed, refined, sophisticated dining experience,” and “a beacon in modern Sri Lankan dining.”

Staying put in the beating heart of Soho, following a major refurbishment Paradise 2.0 will aim to “progress modern Sri Lankan food,” says Fernando. “I really want to move it on so that people have a different perception of the cuisine, so that it’s not just seen as rice and curry.” 

From 28 May, dinner service will revolve around a new six course set menu priced at a modest £59 per person. Led by head chef Alfie Bahnan, Fernando says he and the team are “looking to give traditional dishes a different spin while keeping authentic flavours at the heart of everything that we do.” 

Poached pollock, Scottish langoustine and mustard kiri hodi, lime-leaf and dill oil, toasted coconut and quince sambol, Gilchester’s spelt and fresh coconut pol-roti (Eleonora Boscarelli)

Crafted using a mix of British and Sri Lankan produce and served alongside an optional drinks pairing by Erin Mulkerrin-English, opening dishes will include creative, seasonal takes on rasam broth – such as spiced lacto-fermented strawberry – and a Texel mutton roll-tartare, as well as smoked sirloin steak, peanut, ambarella and bone-marrow curry offered with a selection of condiments and rotis. Meanwhile, an a-la carte version of the menu will be available at lunchtimes.

smoked sirloin steak, peanut, ambarella and bone-marrow curry (Eleonora Boscarelli)

The restaurant’s new interiors have been designed to evoke that of a cosy, tactile Sri Lankan villa. Imagined by Dan Preston, who designed Mountain, Brat and Kiln, the space will revolve around a stone counter which will seat seven guests and serve as an area for chefs to finish dishes. Elsewhere, plum leather bouquets will seat a further 26 guests, boasting chic, built-in cutlery drawers for ease. 

Speaking of the decision to make a change, Fernando says, “I think over the last four and a half years I have grown, developed and progressed. My viewpoint and inspirations have changed, so it’s time to evolve the brand into something a little bit different.”

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