In recent years, the quality of food at Leon has nosedived. Once a bastion of chic, healthier high street fast food thanks to fish finger wraps, a relatively pioneering “superfood salad”, and rice and veg boxes, Leon started struggling, its reputation damaged and its brand compromised. A report in February found Leon lost £60 million in the four years it was owned by the EG Group, a company that integrated it into its budget supermarket chain Asda two years later.
Leon’s is a meandering tale. Founded by John Vincent, Henry Dimbleby and Allegra McEvedy in 2004, the chain started strong, helping to popularise such necessary delights as harissa and sumac. It made headlines, received celebrity backing and, six months in, was even named “best new restaurant” in the prestigious Observer Food Monthly awards. On the judging panel? Rick Stein, Gordon Ramsay, Nigel Slater, Heston Blumenthal, Ruth Rogers and Jay Rayner. Not an easy bunch to impress.
