Simpson's in the Strand review: Good grief, it's a hangover-free restaurant

Review at a glance: ★★★★★

By Jiminy, by Jove, I’ve cracked it. They said it couldn’t be done: the idea fantastical, the dream delusional, the reality impregnable. Ladies, gentlemen, I present to you: The Restaurant Where it’s Impossible to Get a Hangover. Garçon — champagne all round, 15 brandies apiece. Have a bouncer put on the loos and fill the taxi ranks with ambulances.