Some things we take for granted, never imagining they might one day disappear. It applies to all sorts. Le Gavroche is one. It is the restaurant that eased Britain out of its meat’n’two-veg addiction, that took Londoners’ choice for a meal out past workers’ caff or private club. Opened in 1967 by Albert and Michel Roux, both now gone themselves, the place was a revelation that started a revolution. It became a training ground, too: it taught diners how to eat, and chefs how to cook. When, late on an August Friday, Michel Roux Jr announced it would close come January, the reaction was bewilderment. How could he? But for Roux, the time was right; he’s had a good innings. It is a loss, but one that brings a reminder: nothing lasts forever. Gavroche may be saying goodnight, but there are other institutions to explore and support. hese are they.
