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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

Seasonality, Maidenhead: ‘Deserves to prosper’ – restaurant review

‘Delicate, imaginative, painstaking cookery’:  Seasonality Maidenhead.
‘Delicate, imaginative, painstaking cookery’: Seasonality Maidenhead. Photograph: Clare Lewington/The Guardian

One might be forgiven for thinking a trip to Seasonality, a new restaurant in Maidenhead, would involve a seamless, super-fast trip along the spanking new Elizabeth Line. After all, we saw Her Majesty in a big hat, dutifully cutting a ribbon, heralding that Maidenhead and the likes of Twyford and Slough are now in extra-fast reach of the capital. Puzzlingly, this is not the case.

Seasonality is very much up and running, serving smoked lardo rillettes and peach bavarois on Queen Street in the town centre. But it will be 2023 before the Elizabeth Line starts to do the useful, commuter-enticing, home buyer-attracting things it promised, as it is still a thing of three separate parts. Presently, Seasonality, by Wesley and Francesca Smalley, has the feeling of an intimate house party just before things get a bit hectic.

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