Ho Chee Boon, one of the most celebrated chefs in San Francisco, was about to lead me on a walking tour of Chinatown, where his new restaurant stands.
"I want to play my part to bring business back and elevate Chinatown," he said. "If you see the cover of a book, if it's attractive and interesting, you will open the book. I want to do this with the restaurant."
But this was no simple stroll because of COVID-19, because the neighborhood is changing and because the chef's impressive credentials are global, not local. With the start of the Year of the Tiger, nobody is sure where this Chinatown is headed.
