Meera and Muzaffar Ali's House of Kotwara is a name to reckon with. The brand is known for for taking the
ancient embroidery techniques of chikankari, aari and zardosi and applying them in both traditional and
contemporary silhouettes. In a new development, Meera and Muzaffar Ali's brand House of Kotwara's new Creative Director is their daughter Sama Ali. The young designer has now launched her first collection under the brand name and she speaks to us on continuing the legacy of her parents.
House of Kotwara has been in the industry for more than 30 years. How has the brand evolved over the years?
SA: House of Kotwara’s primary axiom is that of reinventing beauty through delicate human effort using traditional embroidery. Our craft skilling efforts are a living example of Dwar pe Rozi (Employment at Doorstep). Over the last three decades we have empowered women and weaker sections of the populace, gathered under one sky. Enabling our artisans to create masterpieces of couture inspired by the nostalgia of our royal heritage.
Over the years, House of Kotwara has purveyed exquisite prêt, extravagant couture and everything in between. We have been pioneers of the revival of Chikankari and continue to drive innovation in Chikan each season. We have developed new avatars for Aari and Zardozi, integrating classical Persian and Mughal motifs with avant-garde art deco. House of Kotwara continues to evolve the established design vernacular with our unique silhouettes, wonderous details and exquisite craftsmanship. Today, we are proud that House of Kotwara is a brand desired by discerning patrons of Indian Couture, in the four corners of the world. Our founding principles, design philosophy and care for our karigars remain resolute and we look forward to continuing our saga of design for the ages.
How is the design language of Dilam different from the previous collections?
SA: Dilam is distinct in that it;s the first Bridal Couture collection I've helmed as House of Kotwara’s Creative Director. Dilam brings together my heritage, unique experiences, sensibilities and branches out into a more modern avatar, whilst keeping the heritable essence of House of Kotwara alive. We have imbued novel interpretations and techniques in the embroidery and silhouettes, which seamlessly meld Indian and Western desires, yielding timeless ensembles with a global allure.
According to you, what are the bridal colours of the season?
SA: I truly believe that a bride must never fall prey to trends, each woman is unique, and must follow their own journey of introspection to arrive at a colour that calls to their heart. To arrive at the perfect colour, and be happy with your choice thereafter, you must ensure the colour actually suits you, and helps you exponentially radiate your natural confidence and soulful beauty from within. My personal favourites are, Vintage Rose, Onion Pink, Raspberry, and Ivory.
What is your source of inspiration for this collection?
SA: This collection is an evolving exploration. It has been guided by my legacy and experiences from my childhood in the rose Gardens of Kotwara, and the wild blooms at our home in Delhi, to the Kews in London during my university days, to the Victorian British artworks from the Royal Academy to inform the designs you see before you. Design evolves, and is always inspired by my muses. I interpreted this in distinct routes, in the first piece of this collection - a one of a kind lehenga, I designed for my own wedding - congregating my own favourite colours, materials and
techniques in one design. This evolved into the Dilam you see today, inspired along the way by all the Kotwara brides I've had the honour to interact with and work with, putting into the collection, a bit of them, a bit of me.
Any advice you got from your parents before starting your journey as the Creative Director for House of Kotwara?
SA: My parents have always told me, that a good leader doesn't just lift themselves, but all those around them, true success is not just personal, but a shared experience.
What according to you is a 2022 bride looking for?
SA: A bride is looking for an outfit that represents who she is as a woman, she is looking to express her identity, to be comfortable in her own skin, enjoy her special day, not feel encumbered, and feel free in her decisions. She is creating a memory for herself and enshrining it within the outfit for her future generations, creating an heirloom.
