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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Environment
Jennifer Rankin at the Westdiep sea farm, North Sea

‘Salty and soft, like a praline’: will Belgium’s national dish finally feature homegrown mussels?

A woman sitting at a table in a restaurant lifts a mussel from a bowl.
The majority of mussels eaten in Belgium are imported from Zeeland in the Netherlands. Photograph: Christophe Smets/The Guardian

It is harvest day at the Westdiep sea farm and the crew are bringing their haul on to the boat: 12-metre long ropes laden with clusters of blue mussels. Bobbing on the water just three nautical miles off the Belgian coast, the four-man crew on the little red Smart Farmer use a crane to hoist the ropes on deck. The mussels go on to a steel conveyor belt, straight into the “declumper”, a machine that will break up bunches of molluscs into smaller groups.

It may look like a typical late summer scene on the Belgian North Sea coast, but the mussel harvest is a novelty. Although Belgium is renowned for its moules frites, it has long struggled to cultivate the shellfish for its national dish on a commercial scale. Of the estimated 20,000 tonnes of mussels Belgium consumes each year, most are imported from Zeeland in the Netherlands.

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