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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Karen Edwards

‘Salmon smoking is a craft’: meet the man behind the kilns

Salmon smoker Roy Stevens
Master smoker Roy Stevens’ twice-smoked salmon is perfect for M&S. Photograph: Robert Ormerod/The Guardian

Tucked away on the edge of remote Spey Bay in Moray, Scotland, a Scottish smokehouse is busy crafting what it believes is the finest smoked salmon in the UK. The smokehouse dates back to 1913 and has a lengthy history within the Spey smoking industry. One of three run by local seafood specialists, its success is built on a deep understanding of environment and community.

“I have been smoking since 1986,” says Associated Seafoods’ master smoker Roy Stevens. “There’s no written formula on how to smoke salmon – but we have knowledge and experience behind us. When I joined the company in 2011, my task was to experiment with materials to create a distinct smoke taste and texture.”

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