There’s a relaxed generosity to serving up gratin dauphinoise as a centrepiece. It’s also a snip to pull together and can be prepped well ahead. This version takes inspiration from the peppery warmth of the Roman pasta dish cacio e pepe, and it really is worth toasting the peppercorns to maximise their flavour and bring a hint of spice to a classic dauphinoise. Serve it with a crunchy bitter leaf and herb salad with a fresh, lemony, anchovy-boosted dressing.
