Trying to recall a meal I had three weeks ago while I’m currently unable to taste or smell anything thanks to an overdue case of Covid – yep, that’s still a thing – is a strange experience. A kind of deprivation torture and sensory daydream all in one. Fortunately, it was a meal I won’t soon forget.
I’ve been making a conscious effort to visit some of the UK’s stellar northern restaurants, and Tommy Banks’ Roots, in York, is one that makes the trip worth it. The sister restaurant to the Black Swan in Oldstead, it’s doable in a day from London, with time to spare for sightseeing should you need to walk off your meal… which you almost certainly will.
