“Yes, please,” a man greeted me hurriedly at the Cafe Atlas stand in St Nick’s Market. I’d just stepped up to the counter after a slow meander through the Glass Arcade, and as always I was incredibly indecisive about what to order.
After a hugely successful lunch at Spice Up Your Life last month, I thought I’d try my luck with another St Nick’s Market veteran. There is ample choice with a range of cuisines from all over the world, meaning you don’t have to agree on the same vendor as your family or friends.
Cafe Atlas is one of the oldest traders on this particular strip of the market, with 16 years of experience behind them. It occupies a large unit with a large concealed kitchen and an indoor seating area resembling a medina cafe in a bustling Moroccan market.
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It’s certainly got my vote as the best-looking stall in the market, dressed with beautifully tiled tables and ottomans. The inside is lit with colourful, mosaic lamps and furnished with deep red and green wallpaper.
“Yes please,” the friendly owner asked me again 30 seconds later while I was still scanning the menu. Cafe Atlas has fixed dishes of slow-cooked meats, tagines and salads as is the custom of Moroccan cuisine with a house specials board - that day was fried tilapia fish on a bed of stewed vegetables for £8.50.
Some people believe the origins of Moroccan cuisine date back to the seventh century BC. The food we know today is heavily influenced by other Arabic countries and extensively uses a whole host of spices like cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, saffron and ginger.
I panicked and ordered the chickpea casserole for £7, as Morocco is known for its tagines, and chose couscous over rice as a more customary accompaniment. I took my seat on the outside edge of the market and waited less than two minutes for my lunch served in a huge earthenware pot.
The smells were luxurious - the chickpeas were soft but still held together in the smooth sauce, served with perfectly cooked potatoes, carrots and a fragrant couscous. The meal was topped with tfaya, a confection of caramelized onions, raisins, sugar, butter, and cinnamon, which added an unexpected but welcome sweetness to the dish.
Despite the hurried welcome and the quick service, I had no sense of urgency to move on quickly from the servers. I had time to order an Arabic coffee and sip it leisurely while the rush of St Nick’s hurried past me.
Arabic coffee is not to everyone’s taste, especially in our Starbucks-orientated culture where a cup of coffee equals a grande frappuccino topped with a mountain of whipped cream. At £2.50, the Arabic coffee is served black and unfiltered, meaning you’re left with sediment at the bottom.
There isn’t any sugar added, but instead, it’s brewed with cinnamon, cloves and rose water to take away from the bitterness and makes it very perfume-like. If you do have a sweet tooth or find yourself craving a lighter bite, there is a selection of cakes on offer served with a fresh cup of Moroccan mint tea in an ornate teapot.
Cafe Atlas’ food is a comforting addition to a wet and windy autumnal day, and will momentarily transport you to the middle of a medina in Marrakesh. The meal came to £9.50 in total, a reasonable price for such a large meal and drink, and I hope to go back and try one of their salad and flatbread dishes, boasting fresh falafel and halloumi.
The food stall is open Monday to Saturday in St Nicholas’ Market from 12pm to 4pm.
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