It’s not intended as a criticism to say that there are some restaurants that lend themselves to a positive review, and then there is High Grange.
For a start, some restaurants— most restaurants, even — are recognisably restaurants. They have doors, tables (sometimes tablecloths), and chairs; and, more often than not, walls or at least windows separating chefs from diners; the fire from the feasting. They tend to have two modes — open or closed — and are content to ask one question of a reviewer: are we any good?
