Islamabad/Kathmandu: Nepal's veteran mountaineer Nirmal Purja was among six climbers still missing after an avalanche struck an expedition on Pakistan's Broad Peak, where rescuers recovered four bodies and continued search operations despite adverse weather, officials said on Friday.
Broad Peak (8,051 metres), located in the Karakoram range near K2, is the world's 12th-highest mountain and is considered one of the most challenging peaks to climb.
The avalanche struck the mountain at an altitude of around 7,000 metres on Thursday, sweeping away a 10-member climbing team that had begun its summit push, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).
The climbers -- six from Nepal, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American and one Chinese -- went missing at around 9 am local time following the avalanche.
ACP President Major General Irfan Arshad said four bodies have been recovered during the rescue operation.
He identified two of the deceased as Oman's Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy and Nepal's Pur Bahadur Gurung. The identities of the other two bodies are yet to be officially confirmed.
Besides Purja and Gurung, the other Nepalese climbers were Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa.
The other missing climbers were Sohail Sakhi of Pakistan, Wang Zhong of China and Mallory Geis of the United States.
Search and rescue operations are underway, but bad weather has severely affected efforts, with helicopters facing operational constraints in the mountainous terrain, according to officials.
Purja, 43, is regarded as one of the world's leading high-altitude mountaineers.
A former member of Britain's Brigade of Gurkhas and the Royal Marines' elite Special Boat Service, he has set several mountaineering records since becoming a full-time climber and expedition guide.
In 2019, he created history by climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres in just six months and six days under his "Project Possible" expedition.
In 2021, he was part of the team of 10 Nepali climbers that made the first successful winter ascent of K2.
Nepal's Minister for Tourism, Culture and Civil Aviation, Khadak Prasad Paudel, expressed concern over the incident and said the government was in regular contact with the Pakistani authorities.
"Deeply concerned by the reports of an avalanche and the loss of contact with Nirmal Purja 'Nims Dai' and fellow Nepali climbers in Pakistan," Paudel said in a social media post.
"We are in regular contact with the Pakistani authorities and receiving updates on the situation. Our thoughts are with the climbers and their families. We remain hopeful for their safe return," he said.
The ACP said two Pakistan Army Aviation helicopters were engaged in the search and rescue operation.
The club said GPS coordinates received from some of the missing climbers indicated that the avalanche had swept the group nearly 1,000 metres downhill, leaving them trapped.
It also expressed concern that some local high-altitude porters might have been caught in the avalanche.
The ACP said it remained in constant contact with government authorities to facilitate the rescue operation.
"Every possible effort is being made to ensure that helicopter support and all available rescue resources are mobilised at the earliest opportunity, subject to weather and operational conditions," it said.
Gilgit-Baltistan Chief Minister Amjad Hussain Advocate directed all relevant departments to remain on high alert and expedite the rescue operation in coordination with the Pakistan Army.
Pakistan's summer climbing season, which runs from June to August, frequently witnesses avalanches and unpredictable weather, posing significant risks to mountaineers.
