It is early morning in the Old Town, when the tangle of pretty cobbled alleyways and ancient stone stairways are relatively empty and you can wander around the creamy, marbled Stradun (Placa) – Main Street – free from the crowds.
It would be tempting to stop at one of the cafés or browse the markets in Gundulic Square – its stalls piled high with strawberries, oranges, fresh figs and cherries – but our guide, Ante Daničić, has other ideas and is keen to get on. To truly appreciate Dubrovnik, you have to learn about its history first. “You need to understand that it’s always been a melting pot here,” says Daničić. “You can see it in the food,” he says: “Turkish baklava, Greek moussaka, Italian pasta. Bari in Puglia is only four hours across the Adriatic by speed boat.”
