I can forgive myself for not making kadaif pastry from scratch; it’s a fiddle, but can be found easily beside the filo pastry at most Kurdish, Turkish and international supermarkets. There’s something incredibly satisfying about the crunch from the multiple crisp layers of this pastry when it’s baked. Here, sliced apples are wrapped in kadaif, slathered in ghee, then baked, making the fruit jammy, but retaining its acidity. This makes for a brilliant sharing pudding, warming up the table as we head into winter.