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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Lizzy Davies

Rainbow plates: the chefs reawakening Africa’s taste for vegan food

UK-based Ethiopian vegan chef Helen Mebrate displays a beyayenetu of shiro, lentils, kale, yellow spilt peas, potatoes, and more served on teff injera.
UK-based Ethiopian vegan chef Helen Mebrate displays a beyayenetu of shiro, lentils, kale, yellow spilt peas, potatoes, and more served on teff injera. Photograph: Courtesy of Helen Mebrate

When Nicola Kagoro returned to Zimbabwe after a five-year stint as executive chef at one of Cape Town’s premier vegan restaurants, her vision had been to take what she had learned about affordable plant-based food and bring it home to Harare.

“Our dinners were six-course vegan meals with an international vegan chef: me,” she says. However, she soon had a bruising realisation: back in 2016, when she was first setting up, local people simply had no interest in buying what she was selling.

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