It is 6:08 pm when the smoke rises white from the chimney of the Sistine Chapel — but we are not in St Peter's Square. Instead, we're a few kilometres away, across the Tiber.
The bells of a parish in Rome's southern district of Garbatella begin to ring, and a couple walking their dogs notice the unusual sound. One of them looks at their mobile phone and says aloud: "What, there's a new pope?" The other nods. "And who is he?"
