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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Phoebe Smith

Pews, picnics and pedalling: my cycle trip through Herefordshire – with a toddler in tow

Writer Phoebe Smith and her son, in his trailer, on the Golden Valley Pilgrimage Way in Herefordshire.
The author and her son, in his trailer, on the Golden Valley Pilgrimage Way in Herefordshire. All photographs: Phoebe Smith Photograph: Phoebe Smith

“East is at the top of the map, south on the right, west is at the bottom and north you’ll find here on the left … ”

I stood looking at the guide in Hereford Cathedral who was uttering these frankly insane words and gripped my OS map tightly. About to set off on a three-night e-bike pilgrimage on the Golden Valley Pilgrimage Way (GVPW) – with my toddler in tow (literally, courtesy of a hired trailer) – I was relieved that cartography has come a long way since the Mappa Mundi, the largest medieval map in existence, was drawn in the 1300s.

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