
TOKYO — The world's great cuisines can regale the eye and the palate. Or, alternatively, they may celebrate the plain and exalt the humble — for example, by recreating home-style comfort food in a restaurant setting.
A popular and compact eatery in Tokyo's Toshima ward, called Onigiri Bongo, does just that. It has served one of Japan's most humble foods, the onigiri, or rice ball, for some 60 years.