One of Angela Hartnett’s mantras for successful Christmas entertaining is “less is more”. Don’t serve a dozen different vegetables that nobody wants, or attempt some wildly ambitious culinary experiment on the most pressured cooking day of the year.
She doesn’t apply the same restraint to her own guest list. “Generally, I’m of the philosophy that if you’re cooking for five, you can cook for 15,” she says, though she and her partner Neil Borthwick, also a chef, often end up inviting even greater numbers to Christmas lunch. Sometimes, when there are 20-plus guests, they decamp to one of Hartnett’s London restaurants – Murano in Mayfair or Café Murano in Bermondsey – and take over the whole establishment.
During Covid, however, they stayed at home with immediate family. “It felt really nice,” Hartnett admits. “We thought, maybe we should do it like this every year.”
Both chefs declare themselves fans of the season. “It’s always enjoyable, the restaurants are closed, you have all the family around you,” says Borthwick, who runs the French House restaurant in Soho. But with so many mouths to feed and not quite enough space at home – their East End townhouse has a smallish basement kitchen and a modest-sized oven – how do they keep everything under control?
It’s all down to preparation, says Hartnett. The night before, she preps the turkey, blanches the sprouts, peels the potatoes and makes the red cabbage side.
“On Christmas morning, it’ll be me and Neil doing the prep. I tend to organise it all and then nag Neil to do certain things. He makes really good sauces, and I’m rubbish at butchery so he does the carving. I know it feels a bit sexist if the man is passed the turkey,” she adds, “but he is very good at it.”
Borthwick also reminds her to slow down. “I can sometimes be, ‘Rush, rush, let’s get it out, feed them,’” says Hartnett. “And he’s like, ‘Let’s take our time,’ and he get the plates hot and serves it all really beautifully.”
“We do work pretty well together,” nods Borthwick.
Hartnett defers to Delia Smith when it comes to roast potatoes. “I take a good roasting potato, peel and dice them into similar sizes and par-cook them. Drain them well, shake them in the pan so they fluff up, then put them into hot duck fat. Towards the end, I’ll add in some rosemary and garlic, and finish them with salt.” Hard to argue with that.
Lunch is served early, around one, but they linger at the table till five or six, breaking off to open presents after the main course before returning for pudding.
“We’re quite self-disciplined with presents,” says Hartnett. “We don’t have lots of young kids in the family and, to be honest, food is the bigger deal for us.”
Back at the table, she lays out desserts and cheese so guests can help themselves. “My aunt Viviana makes really great zabaglione,” says Hartnett, “so if we’re lucky, we have that at the end.” Often there are several Christmas puddings to choose from. “I’ve got a friend, Nicola, who makes them,” says Hartnett, “and then we’ve had the St John Christmas pudding, and the Rick Stein one. When there’s a few, we get my mum to judge. We do a blind tasting where Mum will go, ‘That’s the best.’” Hartnett chuckles. “I’m not going to dish on who won last year.”
Of her Christmas dinner menu for OFM, Hartnett says: “There are all the ingredients here for a wonderful holiday meal, but you don’t need to go nuts because it’s fairly fuss free. You’ve got wonderful turkey, great accompaniments, nice gravy – and a dessert that doesn’t need to be made weeks in advance. There’s plenty for vegetarians too, and enough leftovers for the days after. This is a delicious, satisfying Christmas meal, but with just a little bit of preparation you won’t feel overstretched on the day.”
Starter
Parsnip tarte tatin
I did a similar recipe on the Dish podcast a few months back, with carrots; this is another version. It’s a great vegetarian option and it looks really impressive when you turn it out with the parsnips beautifully caramelised and lovely spices on top. You could put carrots in there instead, or you could do it with onions and fennel – just make sure you’re roasting off the vegetable to get the colour, then pack it in really tightly.
Serves 6
ready-made puff pastry 1 x 500g block
parsnips 700g, peeled
olive oil 1 tbsp
cumin seeds ½ tsp
ginger 1 thumb, grated
maple syrup 2 tbsp
unsalted butter 40g
chicory to serve
For the salad dressing
olive oil 100ml
red wine vinegar 20ml
Dijon mustard ½ tsp
hazelnuts 1 tbsp, toasted and crushed
Preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas mark 6. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to the thickness of a £1 coin and trim to a 28cm circle. Place on to a floured board and leave to chill until needed.
Cut the parsnips in half lengthways (or quarter them if thick). Put in a large roasting tin, season and add the olive oil, cumin seeds and grated ginger and toss to combine. Arrange in a single layer, cover with foil and roast for 25-30 minutes, or until the parsnips are cooked.
Put a 25cm heavy-based ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat and add the maple syrup and butter. Heat until the maple syrup and butter have combined, then add the parsnips and toss together.
Arrange the parsnips so they sit nice and tight in the pan, then allow to cool down.
Take the puff pastry sheet and crimp it by gently twisting the edge so it folds over slightly to form a ridge.
Turn the pastry over and place on to the cooled parsnips, then tuck the crimped edge around the parsnips so they fit tightly.
With a sharp knife, make a couple of slashes into the pastry – this allows the steam to escape and ensures the pastry is cooked properly.
Place in the oven and cook for 25-30 minutes until golden and crisp.
To serve, allow it to rest for a few minutes, then turn out on to a serving dish.
Make the dressing by combining all the ingredients. Serve with the chicory leaves.
Main
Roast turkey with rosemary, thyme and lemon butter
There are so many ways of doing a roast turkey – brining it in this, covering it in that – but there’s nothing wrong the classic approach: rubbing it with loads of butter mixed with hard herbs and lemon. I like to put bacon on top to keep it moist. I think those flavours really work well. Afterwards I like squeezing the roasted lemon over it. The pocket of air in the tin-foil case steams the turkey, which helps keep it moist.
Serves 8, with leftovers
unwaxed lemons 2
salted butter 200g, softened
thyme a handful, leaves picked and finely chopped, stalks reserved
rosemary a handful, leaves picked and finely chopped, stalks reserved
whole free-range bronze turkey 4-6kg
onions 2, peeled and cut into quarters
thick streaky unsmoked bacon 10 rashers
carrots 2, peeled and cut into 5cm chunks
celery 2 sticks, cut into 5cm chunks
garlic 1 bulb, halved
Zest the lemons, then cut them into quarters. In a bowl, mix together the butter, herbs and lemon zest; set aside while you prepare the turkey.
Cut off the turkey wings, parson’s nose and drumstick tips and set aside for the gravy. Stuff the turkey cavity with the quartered lemons, herb stalks and 1 of the onions. Truss the turkey legs together, if you like, with string. Pat the turkey skin dry with kitchen paper, then spread the herb butter evenly over the skin. Season the turkey. Arrange the bacon over the breasts and legs.
Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7. Cut out two large pieces of tin foil, large enough to encompass the turkey with a bit extra, and place in a large roasting tin in a cross shape with the excess foil overhanging. Tip the carrots, celery and garlic into the foil-lined tray and rest the turkey on top, then wrap the foil around to encase the turkey, leaving a large air gap.
Roast the turkey for 40 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 140C fan/gas mark 3. Continue to roast for 2½ hours, unwrapping the foil and basting with the juices from time to time, then increase the oven temperature to 200C fan/gas mark 7 again.
Take the turkey out of the oven, remove the foil and carefully drain off any surplus juices, keeping them for the gravy (see below for recipe). Baste the bird, then remove the bacon and return the turkey to the hot oven for about 30 minutes for the skin to brown and become crisp.
To check it is cooked, put a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh – it should be 70C. If not using a thermometer, pierce the thickest part of the thigh with a small sharp knife. If the juices run clear and there’s no pink meat remaining, then the turkey is cooked; if not, then roast for a little longer, covering with foil if the turkey is already brown enough.
Once cooked, remove from the oven, cover the turkey and leave to stand for at least 60 minutes before carving.
Angela’s turkey gravy
Makes enough for 8 servings
onions 2, unpeeled and sliced into thin wedges
garlic 4 cloves, crushed
dried chilli flakes ¼ tsp
thyme 2 sprigs
rosemary 2 sprigs
celery 1 stick, sliced
tomato puree 2 tsp
white wine 250ml
chicken stock 700ml
Remove the roasted veg from the tin used to roast the turkey and set aside. Pour the reserved turkey cooking juices into a jug and allow the fat to separate. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the fat and carefully skim the rest of it off into a separate jug (cool, chill, then use for future roasts).
Set the turkey roasting tin on the hob and heat the reserved cooking fat, then add the onion wedges, crushed garlic, chilli, herbs and celery; cook for 5 minutes over a medium-high heat. Add the tomato puree and the reserved roasted vegetables and cook for 2 minutes.
If using, add the reserved turkey trimmings to the tin and fry for a further 5 minutes until turning deep golden. Add the white wine, then cook, stirring, until reduced by half. Crush the vegetables and turkey trimmings (if using) with a masher or whisk to maximise the flavour.
Add the reserved cooking juices and the chicken stock to the tin and simmer for a further 20 minutes. Strain the gravy through a sieve into a saucepan, season and keep warm until ready to use.
Vegetarian main
Crespelle
This is a recipe from my Auntie Maria. It’s like a lasagne or cannelloni, really, but you make it with pancakes. Really thin pancakes, a lovely pumpkin and mushroom filling, fold them over. You can make the crespelle the day before and have them all ready in the tray, make the bechamel sauce separately, and then on Christmas Day reheat the bechamel so it’s nice and loose, pour that over, then bake it in the oven while you’re having your starter. It’s a really lovely alternative for vegetarians.
Serves 6
For the pancakes
plain flour 40g
milk 8 tbsp
egg 1 large
salt a pinch
butter 2 tbsp, for frying, plus a few knobs for the oven dish
parmesan a sprinkle, for the oven dish
For the filling
olive oil for frying
shallot 1, finely sliced
garlic 1 clove, grated
chestnut button mushrooms 100g
salt and pepper
cooked pumpkin 300g, crushed lightly
sage leaves a handful, torn
For the bechamel sauce
butter 50g
milk 470ml
plain flour 50g
bay leaf 1
salt a pinch
To make the pancake batter, sieve the flour into a bowl. With a whisk, beat in the milk, the egg and lastly the pinch of salt.
Heat a 20cm crepe or frying pan over medium heat.
Add a small amount of the 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan and gently melt, rotating the pan so it is evenly coated. Add 2 tablespoons of the batter.
Remove from the heat and rotate the pan back and forth so the batter mix covers the bottom of the pan.
Place back on to the heat and cook the crepes on the underside until light brown. Flip over and cook the other side.
Remove from the pan and place on parchment paper.
Continue to follow the same procedure until all the mixture is used (about 8 pancakes).
To make the filling, in a pan, add a glug of olive oil, the shallots and the garlic, and lightly cook until soft.
Add the mushrooms and sauté with the shallots, then season to taste. To finish, add the crushed pumpkin and the torn sage leaves.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
To make the bechamel sauce, add the butter to a pan. Allow to melt and bubble without colouring. Add the flour and cook as a roux for 1 minute.
Keep on a very low heat and gradually add the milk a couple of spoonfuls at a time, whisking quickly to avoid any lumps.
When all the milk has been incorporated, add the bay leaf and salt, increase the heat and cook until it turns into a nice thick sauce.
Remove from the heat, remove the bay leaf, and cover with parchment paper until ready to use – make sure it lies directly on the sauce to avoid lumps.
To make the crepes, preheat the oven to 180C fan/gas mark 6.
Butter a rectangular ovenproof dish about 23cm wide and 8cm deep. Add a couple of spoonfuls of the bechamel to cover the base of the dish.
Take the cooled filling mix and divide between the cooked pancakes. Fill each pancake and lightly roll them up like cigars, then place them carefully next to each other in the dish.
Finish with the bechamel on top and a sprinkle of grated parmesan.
Bake in the oven for 15 minutes until it turns golden brown and starts to bubble. Serve immediately.
Sides
Fennel and orange salad
I know it sounds a bit bizarre having something cold on Christmas Day, but I think it’s lovely. Oranges are in season, so this is a way of getting something fresh and citrussy on the table. It works well with cold meats the next day too.
Serves 6
fennel 1 large head, sliced
oranges 2, peeled, pith removed and segmented
rocket 2 handfuls
parsley a handful, roughly chopped
olive oil 100ml
orange juice 20ml
dijon mustard 1 tsp
garlic 1 small clove, crushed
salted toasted almonds 1 tbsp, loosely chopped
Place the prepared fennel, oranges, rocket and parsley in a large mixing bowl. Whisk the olive oil, orange juice, dijon mustard and garlic to make a vinaigrette.
Just before serving, mix the salad and the dressing. Transfer to a serving platter and finish with the nuts. Serve immediately.
Red cabbage
This is Neil’s recipe and it’s really delicious. You can make it up to four days before and it will sit happily in the fridge and marinate. Along with roast potatoes (see introduction) and the fennel salad, you don’t really need to do much else on the veg side.
Serves 6
red cabbage 500g, cored and shredded
juniper berries 20, bruised
cardamom pods 2
cloves 10
cinnamon stick 10cm, broken into pieces
star anise 3
red wine 300ml
red wine vinegar 50ml
goose fat 50g, or butter or olive oil if you prefer
onion 1, sliced
apple 1
redcurrant jelly 2 tbsp
Put the cabbage in a bowl. Tie the spices up in muslin, nestle in the cabbage and pour over the wine and vinegar. Cover and marinate overnight in the fridge.
The next day, drain the cabbage, reserving the marinade and spice bag. Melt the goose fat in a deep frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until soft. Add the cabbage and cook for 5 minutes. Add the reserved spice bag and marinade, then season. Place a circle of baking paper on the cabbage.
Reduce the heat and cook gently for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Peel, core and grate the apple.
Remove the baking paper from the pan, stir in the apple and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until the apple is tender.
Stir in the redcurrant jelly, check the seasoning and set aside, covered. Serve warm with the main.
Pudding
Zabaglione
This is my aunt’s recipe. If you’re not into the traditional Christmas pudding or cakes, it’s a really lovely, glamorous alternative. Make it the night before, put it in the fridge and it’s all ready to go. Just take it out and serve it straight to your guests.
You’ll need 6 serving glasses, such as wine glasses or small glass bowls, with a couple of amaretti biscuits for each serving.
Serves 6
egg yolks 6
caster sugar 150g
marsala 120ml
brandy 25ml
sherry 25ml
amaretti biscuits a handful, the crunchy kind, to serve
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, then turn it down to a simmer. Choose a mixing bowl that fits easily on the saucepan without touching the water.
Add the egg yolks and sugar to the mixing bowl and whisk well. Whisk in the marsala and the other alcohol.
Place the mixing bowl over the simmering water. Whisk in a figure of eight continuously until the mixture starts to foam and swell into a light soft mass; it should be very thick and hold any trails from the whisk.
Remove from the heat and pour into the serving dishes.
Place in the fridge to set and serve well chilled, or serve immediately to eat while still warm. Either way, just before serving, crumble over some amaretti biscuits.
Angela Hartnett is chef-patron of Murano, in Mayfair, and Café Murano, in Bermondsey, Covent Garden and St James’s, London
