Paradise Food, Daleside Nurseries, Ripon Road, Killinghall, Harrogate HG3 2AY (01423 877109). Starters £10-£18; mains £18-£28; desserts £4-£10; wines from £25.50
Paradise is a restaurant in a shed at the bottom of a garden, but oh what a shed, and oh what a garden. The shed is a slatboard building over sturdy grey-painted girders. Inside is a broad, white-walled space, big on Yorkshire flagstones, shiny-leafed rubber plants and garden tables of the sort advertised in Sunday colour supplements, much like the one in which this column appears. The soft, grey-upholstered chairs are wide and engineered for those of us with more senior bottoms which insist upon padding. There is light, and warmth and cake. We’ll come back to the cake. The garden is likewise not some diminutive lawn, with a carefully trimmed herbaceous border. It is Daleside, a garden centre on the edge of Harrogate, where nothing bad can ever happen. It is not the kind of garden centre just for a couple of things for the patio and a rusting iron cutout of a hare. You could replant a forest from the stock here. Like the shed, it is big-boned and significant.
