On Pancake Day, lemon and sugar is hard to beat when it comes to a sweet option. A simple, flat crepe, as thin as can be, doused joyfully in lemon juice and with a crisp sheet of white sugar. All anyone need do is roll it up and serve to be devoured, ideally with a cup of tea or a glass of Champagne.
Champagne, with pancakes? Here comes Billecart-Salmon, a French champagne house with a roster of chefs on its books. One is Mark Birchall, of the three Michelin-star restaurant Moor Hall (read our review here). He’s devised a savoury pancake recipe more complicated than the above, an audacious riff on one of the oldest dishes in existence. It’s for the diehard pancake fans, not least those who want an all singing, all dancing Shrove Tuesday.
