Health warning: this is not a health warning, not a riff on the pseudoscientific benefits of a glass of claret. Alcohol is alcohol: probably not very good for you. But there are moments when a glass of wine — the right glass of wine — carries a certain enchantment. Where it softens the edges, adds a little light, quickens conversation.
Not always, of course. Your dentist is unlikely to be grateful should your waiting room routine include a glass of Rioja alongside the flick through the Country Life. Equally, in a boozer after work, gossiping with colleagues, there’s no need to insist on Leflaive when a glass of Aussie whatever should get the job done. Granted, the chances of a boozer stocking Leflaive are pretty slender.
