Once upon a time, eyelashes were barely decorated. Sure, you might’ve curled them, and inevitably mascara adorned them. Maybe big occasions warranted an extra layer or two or even a waterproof formula for, y’know, weddings and the like.
That all changed around ten years ago when eyelashes became an event, and I suspect you, like me, became used to seeing people with eyelashes so enhanced, so lifted, so lacquered, so glued on that the humble naked lash looked underwhelming.
Those days are dead. A recent wave of people demonstrably and proudly dialling down their mascara suggests that a growing number are a bit over excessive lashes. Two disparate but influential places bear testament to this: TikTok where #nomascara is a movement, and on the catwalks, where, for example, make-up artist Charlie Riddle loaded models’ eyes up with metallic glazes paired with zero mascara whatsoever.
Fear not: you don’t have to ditch your mascara to look modern; it is very much still on the agenda, but it’s diversified its offering massively to cater to an audience who have varied requirements. First, coloured mascara has entered the mainstream, with more brands than ever releasing brown hues as an option. Advocates claim they add enhancement without looking quite so done, quite so laboured, which is very de rigueur in make-up at the moment.
Second, formulas have stepped up, and now you can buy something that isn’t merely a big black paste for lashes but will help to lift them, or coat them seamlessly, creating that your-lashes-but-better look. You can even buy one specifically for lower lashes, complete with a teeny tiny wand to make sure you can target each and every hair.
Let me acquaint you with the best at every price point.
Classic
This is your all-round good egg mascara, doing all the things traditional mascaras should do i.e. coat your lashes, allow for either a single layer for subtlety or for more intensity when adding more.
Spend: Lisa Eldridge Kitten Lash Mascara, £29, lisaeldridge.com
Save: Sculpted by Aimee MyMascara, £18, sculptedbyaimee.co.uk
Tubing
Tubing mascara uses polymers to cleverly wrap around each individual lash, then doesn’t budge until removed with warm water, making it a great daily option if you generally find your mascara migrates down your face with the slightest provocation.
Spend: Kevyn Aucoin The Volume Mascara, £27, spacenk.com
Save: e.l.f. Lash XTNDR Mascara, £7, elfcosmetics.co.uk
Curling
Think of these as scaffolding for your lashes, whereby the mascara will prop up the base of every hair, supporting them in their quest to stand up and be seen. You may notice some crunchiness of texture, which is very much part what’s meant to happen to keep lashes stiff and in place.
Spend: Dior Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara, £35, selfridges.com
Save: TAvon WonderCurl Volume, Curl & Lift Mascara, £9.50, avon.uk.com
Brown
Don’t cast brown mascara in the role of black mascara’s less potent sibling. It is merely a different beast, looking more in harmony with the rest of the face, never taking centerstage but just pulling things together without drawing much attention to itself.
Spend: Chanel Le Volume De Chanel Mascara in Brun, £36, chanel.com
Save: Catrice Pure Volume Magic Brown Mascara, £3.95, catrice.eu
Volumising
There are times when nothing but a lot of lash does the job, and I suspect anyone who’s a fan of a smoky or kohl-rimmed eye will be keen on many, many coats of mascara to accompany it. The best ones add oomph without crumbling or gluing lashes together – but remember you can always employ a lash comb if you really want to create separation.
Spend: Victoria Beckham Vast Lash Mascara, £32, victoriabeckhambeauty.com
Save: Max Factor 2000 Calorie Dramatic Volume Mascara, £9.99, boots.com
Precision
There will be those of you for whom a single clump, a single lash joining another is untenable. Avoiding that fate is mostly about the brush, and opting for one that will comb through for ultimate control will help you to achieve perfectly neat, perfectly tidy lashes every time.
Spend: Ruby Hammer Mascara & Brow Duo, £28, rubyhammer.com
Save: Glossier Lash Slick Lift and Lengthening Mascara, £20, spacenk.com
Lower Lashes
It’s fiddly work, coating lower lashes; they tend to be a little more puny, a little less regular in placement. Equally, your regular mascara may overload them. As such, you may want to use a mascara that is specifically designed to grab but not weigh them down.
Spend: Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara, £21.50, clinique.co.uk
Save: Pixi Lower Lash Mascara, £11, pixibeauty.co.uk
Waterproof
These build a barrier around lashes, making them resistant to water. How resistant they are depends on the formula, but you should be able to swim and generally go about life without them budging. The only downside? You will need to use an oil-based make-up remover to get them off without scrubbing at lashes.
Spend: Lancôme Hypnôse Waterproof Mascara, £29, johnlewis.com
Save: Maybelline Lashsensational Waterproof Mascara, £9.99, boots.com