Last night, around a low hung, glistening chandelier and Rihanna cheering from the front row, came the dawn of Paris Fashion Week.
The schedule began with the last of Virgil Abloh’s designs for his own brand Off White, and the beginning of a new chapter for the streetwear-cum-couture brand which lost its founder to a battle with cancer in November last year.
After Abloh’s posthumous Louis Vuitton mega-show during men’s fashion month in January, anticipation was already at fever pitch. But as supermodel after super-celebrity made their way onto a runway dressed in the label’s unique high-low mix — tiered, pleat tulle skirts paired with university t-shirts and devil horned baseball caps matching black sequin minis — it quickly became clear the show was to be a historic tribute.
Catwalk stars of the Eighties and Nineties included Naomi Campbell in a floor length, black overcoat that read ‘Respectfully’ down the back, Amber Valetta wearing a spaghetti strap, ombré sequin gown with chunky chain necklaces, and a rare appearance from Helena Christensen sporting a neon hue tulle gown and oversized blazer.
They were joined by the likes of Cindy Crawford, Debra Shaw, and Karen Elson, who lit up a cigarette during her walk.
Between them came a definitive list of new guard models — from Bella Hadid holding her heels and showing an off-shoulder, puff-heavy white wedding dress in trainers to Karlie Kloss in a blown up, knitted cap and pleated ballroom skirt. Kaia Gerber looked party-ready in a micro dress and mustard t-shirt holding her phone. Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid streamed out, as did Kai Isaiah Jamal and Adesuwa Aighewi, two younger models currently at the top of their game.
Amongst the modelling royalty came a number of surprise faces too. Namely, Serena Williams, who wore a second skin printed sheer top and ruched trousers underneath a dark, knee length see-through dress, and DJ Honey Dijon in a padded shoulder, blue velvet suit.
And in true Off White style, there followed corseted polka dot gowns worn with mis-matched opera gloves mixed up between sportswear tropes ranging from varsity jackets to football scarves and a skateboard.
But for all the celebration, the collection came not only in the shadow of Abloh’s passing, but under the grim veil of war in Ukraine. Unlike the recent Milan Fashion Week, where reference to the conflict was largely avoided, Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode which is French fashion’s governing body, addressed it with a statement on Monday.
“Creation is based on the principle of freedom, under any circumstances. And the role of fashion is to contribute to individual and collective emancipation in our societies,” Toledano said. “Given the present context, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode encourages you to experience the shows of the coming days with solemnity, and in reflection of these dark hours.”
