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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Annalisa Barbieri

Notes on chocolate: getting out of a jam

Juicy fruits:  orange marmalade treats from Hotel Chocolat.
Juicy fruits: orange marmalade treats from Hotel Chocolat Photograph: PR

Growing up in an Italian household we never had a ritual for making jam and marmalade. That’s not to say Italians don’t make it, they do. But in my experience not altogether successfully; the jams my family members have given me have been little more than sour fruit sludge (it’s OK to say this as not a single family member reads this column, as I frequently discover when they ask me if I’ve heard of *insert name of really well known chocolate brand here*).

I treasure jam from my non-Italian friends, because they seem to understand that sugar is a necessary requirement, and so is ‘setting’. Anyway, I really have little idea of when marmalade season is, because I don’t make it, all I know is that it reminds me of this time of year and settling down, settling in and doing housey things wearing an apron and, maybe, lighting a fire (too early?)

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