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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Phoebe Smith

No electricity, no toilet, no running water – heaven! Celebrating 60 years of the Mountain Bothies Association

Woman in doorway of a bothy on moorland, holding cup of tea
Ellie, the writer’s friend, in Great Lingy Hut, just below the summit of the eponymous Lake District hill. Photograph: Phoebe Smith

‘Do you think I’m going to be cold?” asks my friend Ellie as we navigate the winding roads of Mosedale, on the north-eastern reaches of the Lake District, while rain batters against the windscreen. It’s a fair question. Both the Met Office and Mountain Weather Information Service are clear – being in the Lakeland hills will not be pleasant this Friday night, due to a sudden cold and wet snap. But there’s another reason she’s asking. I’m taking her to stay in her first bothy – that’s a mountain shelter left open, year-round, for walkers, climbers and outdoor enthusiasts to use, free of charge, with no way to book.

Unlike mountain huts in other parts of Europe and the world, they weren’t built for this purpose. They are old buildings left to ruin in wild places – former coastguard lookouts, gamekeepers’ cottages, remote Highland schoolrooms – before the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA) began to maintain them, offering shelter in a storm. And during this particular storm, shelter is definitely needed.

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