(Picture: Altuzarra)
Sub-zero temperatures and snowy conditions were not enough to deter the New York style set on Sunday night, as they flocked in chilly darkness to the Woolworth Tower in New York’s TriBeCa to see the autumn/ winter 2022 offering from Joseph Altuzarra.
The show, which closed the third day of New York Fashion Week, marked the French-American designer’s second NYFW show since his brand, first launched in 2008, returned to the schedule from Paris, in the wake of his divorce from luxury behemoth Kering in 2020.
Entering the historic edifice, first built in 1913 and more recently Altuzarra brand HQ, the audience of mostly unmasked guests (the indoor mask-wearing mandates lifted just in time for New York Fashion Week) found a copy of Herman Melville’s 1851 novel Moby Dick on each of their seats. And the show, unveiled beneath a gilt ceiling featuring motifs of fish scales, sea creatures and sail boats, took inspiration from sea explorers and nautical mythological creatures.
“I wanted the collection to not only evoke the intrepid and adventurous spirit of sailors and world travellers, but also the mystery and darkness of the oceans depths, populated with mermaids and mythological creatures,” said the 39-year-old Paris-born designer in his notes.
The clothes themselves explored eclectic global influences, from Russian-esque red paisley print peasant dresses and babushka bonnets, to tribal tie-dye silk maxis and ankle-length boucle coats with faux-fur ruff collars.
The traditional sailor marinière came reimagined in thick rib knit sweater form and fisherman’s peacoats came with oversized shearling lapels, weathered knitwear, and mother-of-pearl fastenings. Elsewhere leather kilt midi skirts were inspired by Altuzarra’s trip to the Scottish highlands.
The mermaids came last wearing floor-swishing maxi skirts and dresses bedecked in giant black and gold shimmering coin-sized pailettes crafted from aluminium that moved to dramatic – and delightfully noisy – effect. Paloma Elsesser was among the diverse cast of models stomping the marble runway in giant platforms and the ever-imperceptible Anna Wintour even managed to applaud.
It might be minus a mega backer, but the good ship Altuzarra sails on.
