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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Ben West

My search for the perfect bodega in Madrid

A bow-tied waiter standing behind a traditional-looking bodega counter with wall-to-ceiling shelves behind filled with bottles of wine and vermouth etc
Vermouth on tap … at Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid. Photograph: Sonia Bonet/Shutterstock

The first hurdle to overcome when searching for the Spanish capital’s top bodegas is the correct interpretation of the word “bodega”. It is defined as a warehouse, winery, wine cellar and wine shop or bar specialising in wine. In Spanish slang it can also mean a convenience store.

I asked several people working in the Madrid wine trade, and they all struggled to define exactly what a bodega is – and sometimes disagreed with each other. For example, while La Bodega de los Reyes fits the description because it has a wine cellar, a nearby bar owner said it couldn’t be classed as a bodega as it was just a wine shop.

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