My grandmother was coeliac in a time when no one knew what it meant. I think of her each time I buy my son’s loaf

‘I feel like my grandmother is here with me again. I imagine sharing my gluten-free cake recipes with her and watching the glee on her face as I show her the gluten-free supermarket aisle.’ Photograph: Image Source/Alamy

Late in her life, my beloved grandmother was diagnosed with coeliac disease. It was the early 1980s and “gluten free” was not the woke gastronomical term it is today. There was no gluten-free bread in the supermarket and no GF alternatives on the cafe menu. If we went to a restaurant, we phoned ahead.

“Can you tell me if there’s any wheat in the gravy, my mother is a coeliac,” my mother would say.