THE food historian behind a campaign to secure Unesco recognition for the Scottish morning roll has hit back at critics who have branded the bid “silly”, after it received cross-party political backing.
Peter Gilchrist, who is campaigning for “the act of ordering a morning roll” to be recognised as part of the UK’s Inventory of Living Heritage, said the growing attention was an opportunity to celebrate a part of Scotland’s working-class culture which can often be overlooked.
It comes after Scottish Greens MSP Holly Bruce lodged a motion – supported by MSPs from both Labour and the SNP – at Holyrood celebrating the history and cultural significance of the morning roll and backing Gilchrist’s campaign.
Speaking to The National following the political endorsement, Gilchrist said the motion had been a “massive help” in bringing more attention to the campaign.
He said: “The other politicians who put aside party differences to join a motion that celebrates working-class food have shown where their priorities are.
“I hope we'll see more politicians recognise the value of celebrating working-class culture.
However, Gilchrist said the increased attention had also brought criticism, with a “small thread of naysayers” appearing in his comments and direct messages.
“Some don't know the history of the morning roll and think it's a silly campaign,” he said.
“Some think there are better representatives of the Scottish pantry and we should only focus on luxury goods.
He went on: “There are also people who have an unrelentingly negative view of Scotland and won't tolerate any part of working-class culture being celebrated.”
“Anyone who tries to use this campaign to create division or says that the few minutes it would take to sign a motion would be a waste of time is revealing themselves.”
Gilchrist added that the purpose of the Living Heritage inventory was precisely to recognise tradition which might otherwise be overlooked.
“The Inventory of Living Heritage allows us to gain recognition for the heritage that can't fit in a display case or a museum,” he said.
“It is for the everyday parts of our culture that we often miss, purely because we're so used to them.”
Gilchrist pointed to culinary traditions already put forward elsewhere in the UK, including the baking of bara brith in Wales and making Christmas pudding in England.
Scottish submissions have included Scotch broth and the Burns Supper, as well as calls relating to Aberdeen Butteries or Rowies.
Gilchrist also revealed that his campaign had received a boost from Scottish bakery and morning roll producer McGhee’s, which has handed over research it conducted into regional morning roll preferences across Scotland.
Gilchrist said the data will allow the campaign to break down Scotland's favourite morning roll orders according to age, gender and region, with the results set to be released in the future.
“There’s a fair few surprises,” he said.
Gilchrist is currently building support for the movement. At recent talks he has invited attendees to speak into a recorder, giving their name, where they’re from, and their go-to morning roll order.
These testimonies, as well as others he plans to collect throughout the year, will form the basis for the “community consent” required to achieve Unesco status.
Defending the campaign, Gilchrist added: “This campaign is a celebration of our high street butchers and bakers.
“It's a celebration of a food that has sustained working people for over 500 years.
He added: “Morning rolls are an intrinsic part of Scottish culture that are distinct in recipe and history and they deserve recognition.”
