Staff ring a bell when you arrive at Monastero Santa Rosa, a 17th-century-monastery-turned-luxury hotel built into the cliffs on one of the most famous stretches of Italy’s famous Amalfi Coast. And it’s one of the noisiest moments of a stay at the opulent five-star property — the rest of the time it’s as though you have the entire 20-room monastery to yourself. Which is all pretty mind-boggling, given it’s right in the heart of one of Europe’s busiest coastlines.
Indeed, cars and motorbikes race along the famous narrow road that clings to the coast of Amalfi — avoiding hiring a care is pretty much number one on most of the area’s bucket lists — yet you’d hardly know it as you lounge in the sprawling Mediterranean gardens that stretch across four levels below this magnificent building perched on the cliffs. Peace is the order-of-the-day here, from the sound of birdsong and trickling fountains at breakfast to lemon-scented spa treatments in the shade of a pergola. It’s little wonder it consistently ranks among the best hotels in Italy — and indeed the world.
From Michelin-star tasting menus to the award-winning historic spa, here’s what to expect.
Where is it?
Right in the heart of the Amalfi Coast, just off the main road between Amalfi and Positano.
The hotel is located above the quiet fishing village of Conca dei Marini between the two popular tourist towns and you’ll want a car or a cab to get around. If you do visit Amalfi, make sure you look up and spot Monastero’s majestic building shining there, perched on the cliffs.
Style
Staff don’t ask for your feedback at Monastero Santa Rosa. They ask for your confession (there are old confessionals dotted around the corridors) — a nod to the property’s rich history as a Dominican monastery. Not that I expect they receive many confessions, unless it’s guests raving about the Sfogliatella at breakfast or the little lemon-flavoured gifts staff leave you throughout your stay.
The majestic building dates back to 1612 and you can’t escape the history from the moment you walk in, from the original bell and wheel that were used by the nuns who used to live here, to the parlour which is now an ultra-chic gift shop. You’ll be given a fresh glass of lemonade with rosemary as you enjoy the views on arrival, whether it’s from the flower-lined balcony near reception or one of the multiple plant-filled sun terraces on the levels below.
The whole place is cool and quiet, with low-lit, high-ceilinged corridors and a glass lift to transport you between floors. There’s an exclusive feel, with just 20 rooms and such an extensive selection of indoor and outdoor lounge areas that you’ll never be on top of other guests — in fact, you’ll do well to come across many others at all in the four levels of lush landscaped gardens. Staff are smartly dressed and ultra-diligent, offering to bring you an extra towel or print out ferry times for your day trip to Positano.
Expect treats and extras at every turn, from old sweets made by the nuns left in your room and fluffy slippers and hand cream by the bed when you get back from dinner. Did I know I needed a little bag with cold bottled water and lemon sweets for our journey to the airport? No. Did I love it? Absolutely.
Which room?
Each of the hotel’s 20 rooms and suites — split between two levels of the monastery — is named after a flower or herb that was cultivated at the monastery.
The vibe is spacious and grand, just like the building itself, with bathrooms clad in Jerusalem stone and high vaulted ceilings. They’re packed full of character, too. Think giant tapestries on the walls, dark vintage furniture and minibars built into old wooden chests. Even the do-not-disturb signs are a nod to the building’s monastic history, with a hand-painted picture of a nun putting a finger to her lips.
That said, you don’t lose out on luxury. Bathrooms have heated floors, rain showers and high-end Italian amenities and many have a full-size bathtub. Each of the eight suites has a unique character and some even come with their own terrace.
Food & drink
Puff pastries with honey, walnuts and black cherries. Housemade cacio e pepe with red shrimp and summer truffle. Seared turbot served with morel mushrooms, chicory and smoked provola foam.
These are just some of the culinary delights you can expect during a stay at Monastero Santa Rosa. The hotel is a foodie haven, with one of the finest alfresco dining terraces in Italy and its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Il Refettorio, serving an exquisite tasting menu of seafood, meats and local produce that pays homage to the hotel’s monastic history. Expect butter shaped like a flower and one of the most impressive hotel bread assortments I’ve seen. The menu features everything from blue lobster to a chef’s risotto with cuttlefish carpaccio and orange zest from Sorrento, all paired with fine Italian wines from the on-display wine cellar in the hotel’s bar, La Brocca.
The hotel’s poolside cafe, Il Mezzogiorno, serves relaxed lunches and breakfast is an a la carte affair, with a starter of seasonal fruits, baked goods and freshly squeezed orange juice before an a la carte selection of traditional hot and cold dishes, plus an extra seasonal menu featuring the likes of apple pancakes, savory waffles and the hotel’s famous Sfogliatella pastry filled with mozzarela, broccoli and sausage with black pepper ricotta. Room service breakfast is an option if you wish, though you risk missing out on the sweet hand-painted buon giorno plates.
Facilities
The hotel’s lush cascading gardens are a botanical wonderland; a Mediterranean paradise set across four levels of terraces with sweeping panoramic views of the sea. Expect old wooden chess boards and canopied daybeds dotted around the various sun terraces amidst the lemon trees. You could spend all week here and never need to lounge in the same seat twice.
There’s a library for book worms, an alfresco fitness centre with Technogym equipment and an assortment of lounges, but the hotel’s true highlights are its mesmerising cliff-edge infinity pool and historic spa, housed in a series of vaulted interconnected rooms and voted the ‘best new spa’ by Tatler soon after opening.
Treatments and products are inspired and often directly taken from the hotel’s Mediterranean garden and monastic roots (think lemon, bergamot, rosemary, lavender and sweet orange aromas) and the building maintains its original 17th century vaulted ceilings and rustic walls. The most exceptional treatment room, the Spa Suite, is a stunning 80 metre-squared double-height vaulted space with a steam room, double wet and dry treatment couches, manicure and pedicure facilities, a relaxation lounge, private dressing room and grooming space and a garden terrace. There’s also the option of having treatments done under the shade of a pergola in the outdoor treatment garden.
What to Instagram
The view through the old monastery window towards Amalfi town and the infinity pool set amongst the property’s immaculate Mediterranean paradise. Swim to the edge and look down at the sea if you dare. Monastero’s has to be one of the most dramatic pool views on the entire coast.
Best for?
Couples and foodies looking for a peaceful break on the Amalfi Coast.
How to get there
It’s just under three hours from London to Naples, then a 75-minute drive at the other end.
When should I go?
July is the busiest month here, as scores of holidaymakers head to the Amalfi coast for a taste of la dolce vita. You’d do best to avoid it, if you can. Even in May, technically the off-season when temperatures are already in their mid-twenties, the roads were heaving and the ferries were swarming. September is still a pleasant 26 degrees and a little more peaceful.
