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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
World
J Oliver Conroy

Mocktails for Maga: why the US right is turning sober

A red baseball cap with the words “MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN” is shown with frozen drinks attached to either side, resembling a novelty beer hat.
A Gallup poll from August found Republicans are making the most aggressive turn to sobriety of the demographic groups measured. Illustration: Alvaro Dominguez/The Guardian

Butterworth’s, an eclectically decorated restaurant in Washington DC, is an unofficial lounge of the Maga elite. A nameplate on one table declares it the official “nook” of Raheem Kassam, the former adviser to the rightwing British politician Nigel Farage and a co-owner of the restaurant. Steve Bannon is also frequently sighted holding court over Carolina gold rice – though the signature dish is bone-marrow escargot, which some young Maga politicos swear is good for your collagen.

When he opened the farm-to-table brasserie in 2024, Bart Hutchins, Butterworth’s chef and one of its partners, was determined to resist what he sees as “the new puritanism” of wellness and sobriety culture. Hutchins finds non-alcoholic “mocktails” annoying on principle. “I did this edict, where I was like, ‘I’m not stocking that stuff,’” he said. “If you want to drink a glass of juice, just ask for a glass of juice; I’m not gonna pretend it’s a cocktail.”

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