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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Michelin Guide 2024: Chinese restaurant Hakkasan loses star after 20 years

Both branches of Hakkasan have lost their Michelin stars, with the 2024 Guide now revealed. The original, in Fitzrovia, held the accolade for two decades.

Hakkasan Hanway Place, founded by the restaurateur Alan Yau in 2001, last year celebrated 20 years of recognition, and was the first Chinese restaurant to be given a star in the Guide. 

The other, in Mayfair, held its star for 12 years, and launched as part of an international expansion that saw Hakkasan restaurants open around the world. 

Hakkasan says it “celebrates authentic Cantonese cuisine with contemporary influences.” Dim sum is particularly popular, while each restaurant under the brand is known for its moody, glamorous interiors, with low lighting and plenty of mirrored chrome. 

In London, diners might order the “silk” menu for £268 per person, where Peking duck, lobster and caviar can be found, but both restaurants also offer an entry level menu for just £39 per head.

Owner Tao Group Hospitality told the Standard: “Hakkasan Hanway Place and Hakkasan Mayfair can confirm that they have not retained their Michelin stars this year. Tao Group Hospitality respects the decision of Michelin in this challenging year, as well as the feedback of all guests.

“Under the leadership of corporate executive chef Andrew Yeo, it is committed to improving and maintaining the high standards across all aspects of the dining experience at Hakkasan, from the kitchen and front-of-house through to delivery.”

But Hakkasan was not the only big London name to lose out in this year’s Michelin Guide

Barrafina Soho, one of London’s best-known tapas joints and a pioneer of modern counter dining, also lost its star, which it first won in 2013. Owned by the Harts Group, there are now five sites across London. 

The other restaurant to lose its star in London is Leroy, a laid-back venture from sommelier Ed Thaw. The Shoreditch bistro was named in the Guide in 2019, just a year after opening, and was credited as being affordable and relaxed. 

Despite the losses, London saw a host of new Michelin stars in 2024, including another to be awarded three — fine dining outpost The Ledbury — and the capital’s first Indian restaurant to be handed two in Gymkhana.

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