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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Kenan Malik

Mezquita and Hagia Sophia: two sacred symbols and the culture wars that belie their complex history

A visitor walks through Córdoba’s mosque-cathedral.
Córdoba’s mosque-cathedral, an ‘architectural expression of the complex, intricate history of Europe’. Photograph: SALAS/EPA

Córdoba’s mosque-cathedral is one of the most glorious buildings in Europe. I was last there 30 years ago, but the memory is still vividly etched in my mind. I remember walking through the Courtyard of the Orange Trees. Then, almost if they had magically changed form, the rows of orange trees give way to a forest of columns of red-and-white arches that mark the mosque.

The transition is stunning, as is the mosque, the beauty of which, spacious and peaceful, is almost impossible to convey in words rather than in the experience. And then, as you walk through, there comes another transition – to a Renaissance cathedral that squats like a familiar stranger within. It would be difficult to call the cathedral beautiful, but there is something quite remarkable about it.

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