I love a fish pie, especially its adaptability. As a dish of several elements, it is ripe for little tweaks here and there, and this curried version is light enough to let you taste the fish without straying too far from fish pie’s essence. Curry leaves can be tricky to get hold of (I keep a bag of fresh ones in my freezer), but they add a lovely dimension. Always choose Marine Conservation Society-approved seafood, and aim for a mix of white and pink fish – smoked haddock is obligatory, though. If you skin the fish yourself, add it to the milk during the poaching – it really intensifies the flavour.
