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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

Mauby, London: ‘Exactly the vibe you want’ – restaurant review

Spice of life: Heleena and Daniel Maynard in the dining room at Mauby.
Spice of life: Heleena and Daniel Maynard in the dining room at Mauby. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

Mauby, 1 Harefield Road, London SE4 1LW (maubybrockley.com). All dishes £4-£10, wines from £18, all cocktails £10

A few weeks ago, I wrote one long, wretched primal scream about the terrible insult to the words “hot dog” that I had to eat at Harrods in your service. If you were worried about me after that, and I understand you might have been, you can now relax. For here I am at Mauby, a new Caribbean restaurant in Brockley, southeast London, and the first plate before us is a single, fat smoked sausage with exactly the right crisp-skinned snap and the correct smooth, juicy interior that I had hoped for. With it are pickles and a yellow Bajan pepper sauce full of heat and vinegar and vigour. It was everything I hoped it would be. This one dish sent all the bad memories packing.

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