London restaurants are rather fond of rebirth. Close the doors, rip out something expensive that somebody else installed five years ago, add a bar, call it a “new chapter” and hope everyone has forgotten what the old one was like.
Sometimes, though, a comeback is worth paying attention to. This week, one of London’s great grand dining rooms is dusting itself off, a Soho dim sum restaurant has somehow persuaded one of cinema’s greatest directors to oversee its makeover and the restaurant claiming to serve London’s best Sunday lunch is venturing beyond Borough Market for the first time in two decades.
