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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Adrian Chiles

London has plenty of posh breakfast options – but give me a greasy spoon any day

A hard hat sits on a table with a full English breakfast, mug of tea, tabloid newspaper etc
A pox on china teacups! Photograph: Avalon/Construction Photography/Alamy

Early some mornings, when I’m working in London, I go for breakfast with two good friends. So that’s me, a fabric dealer and a psychotherapist. Obviously this sounds like the beginning of a joke, but it’s one for which, at the time of writing, I have no punchline. Soho’s our hunting ground, the hunt in question being for somewhere to have breakfast at 7am. There’s not much open at that time. I mean, it’s not asking for much, is it? Somewhere to sit and eat at what is hardly a punishingly early hour.

Being gentlemen of a certain age, we also require access to a toilet, which narrows our options still further. What this leaves us with is the grand total of four establishments. Three are fancy restaurants; one isn’t.

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