London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 is officially underway. The Marie Claire fashion team is on the ground, bringing you all the stand-out moments from the catwalks – and a preview of next season's trends.
Kent&Curwen
September always feels like a new school year, even if you have long graduated – something that KENT&CURWEN embraced for Spring/Summer 2025.
The school uniform was deconstructed and personalised in an irreverence yet considered manner; the classic trench coat was cropped and paired with a pair of matching culottes, while the rugby shirt was reimagined as a twisted, nipped-waist dress.
Creative Director Daniel Kearns also made use of the 98-year-old brand's founding product, the club tie. It was worn traditionally, tied at the waist, and transformed into a dress.
Patrick McDowell
Queer British artist Glyn Philpot was the inspiration behind Patrick McDowell's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. They dived into the Tate archives to explore letters written by the artist to close friends and family, to look at the person behind the art. This collection bridges the gap between both personalities, celebrating true authenticity.
His works are re-imagined through painterly prints on ethereal dresses and delicate fabrics. masculine blazers and shirts are paired with tulle skirts and pastel colours. Closing the show: a wedding gown donated by the Philpot family, re-imagined with black tulle.
Richard Quinn
Few shows bring us almost to tears, but Richard Quinn is always one of them. The gowns are beautiful yes, but it is the way he showcases them with the reverence they deserve that truly sets him apart from the rest - think ballrooms and orchestras.
There were big sleeves and high necks, 3D flowers and beaded ones, full tulle skirts and slim velvet and beaded ones. These are gowns that are unapologetically romantic and dramatic. Alongside his classic colour palette or black and white were bursts of colour: a red tulle gown with black bows, a baby pink beaded column dress with a bow at the back, a floral beaded yellow dress and matching coat, and of course gowns adorned with rose motifs in bold yellow and pink hues. It's no surprise that Quinn is known as the couture king of fashion week.
BORA AKSU
Inspired by feminine beauty, Bora Aksu's Spring/Summer 2025 collection celebrates the memory of the designer's late mother. With their shared passion for style, the collection journeys through their Turkish heritage through use of colours and lush silhouettes, whilst retaining the collection's homage by weaving in Birsen Aksu's style, character and uniqueness.
The collection comes with rich silhouettes in the form of billowing skirts, cropped tailored jackets, draped shirting and sharp tailoring. Weaving in femininity by using intricate lace throughout the pieces and dainty ribbons on the temple's of each mode's cat-eye sunglasses. Colours varied from soft pastel hues like dusty pink, sky blue and egg yolk with fuses of red for added drama and romanticism.
COMPLETEDWORKS
An ethereal performance, Completedworks was beautifully set amongst the fresh gardens of Gordon Square Park. It features model Lily Cole and actress Diana Agron, both in the brand's famed jewellery with soft orchestrated music, which brings an ode to spring during one of London's coldest autumn days (so far). In a continuing expansion of the jewellery context, creative director Anna Jewsbury commissioned an original work by author Fatima for the Spring/Summer 2025 show entitled ‘A Stone is a Small Mountain” to be performed live by Cole and Agron.
The pieces held designs synonymous with the brand, including intricate pearls and textured contemporary silhouettes. Handbags included bow motifs that explored an elegant yet disruptive aesthetic with the introduction of their bucket bag that reimagines a classic design.
Di Petsa
Marking a triumphant return, Di Petsa's Spring/Summer 2025 collection is an introspective collection inspired by creative director, Dimitra Petsa's Greek origins by exploring the ancient Greek myth of Ariadne and Theseus. Exploring desire, loss, love, the collection titled "My Body is a Labyrinth" unveils a personal journey with a nostalgic summertime memory.
Models were draped in the brand's iconic 'wet looks' and hearts imprinted on the skin by tanlines. Vibrant silks and meshes dyed in vibrant degradé colours nodded beautifully to the idea of summer. Prints inspired by menstrual blood, such as printed trousers and stains on models, revealed a central motif that explored a bold symbol of female power and the cyclical nature of life and creation.
Yuhan Wang
An alluring collection that celebrates the female trailblazers that have made their mark on the works of boxing, Yuhan Wang's Spring/Summer 2025 collection balances strength with softness. As an ode to prominent names in the boxing industry like Alaia Ali, Barbara Butterick, Bridget Riley, and Jane Couch, this collection aims to celebrate those who have broken barriers in a male-dominated arena.
Amognst traditional boxing attire like boxing shorts and gloves, Yuhan Wang incorporated soft touches of lace and waist-cinching corsets decorated with soft ribbons. Whilst accessorising with traditional ballerina flats and Chanitilly lace skirts, reminiscent of classic ballerina tutus. As for the footwear, Dainty 19th century-inspired court shoes, another Yuhan Wang mainstay, take an athletic turn with block colour panels and mesh inserts.
Chet Lo
Another impeccable homage to unstoppable female figures, Chet Lo's Spring/Summer 2025 was a strong display of love and tenacity. Seeing the designer's mother reflected across the 31 looks, the collection titled 'Mai's Blossoms' reinterprets his mother's wardrobe with the designer's classicly reimagined signature spiked designs with contemporary takes on pleated trousers, onesies, mini dresses and accessories. With a seamless collection, Chet Lo even took his final bow hand-in-hand with his mother, Mai-Wah Cheung to conclude an emotive show.
Karoline Vitto
London-based Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto is famed for her celebratory shows. Her designs highlight her Brazilian roots and the female body, with subtle hints of ominous shadows settling upon a beach in Rio de Janeiro.
With two Fashion East shows under her belt and a continuous appraisal for its size-inclusive casting, the collection included dramatic floor-length maxi skirts rippling amongst the floor with slinky criss-cross silhouetted dresses in flashes of red scarlet, bright pink, and stormy blue.
MITHRIDATE
Debuting its newest collection as part of the official London Fashion Week schedule, Mithridate presented a stunning tribute to Yunnan, the southwestern province of China. The collection celebrated its rich traditions through colours, craftsmanship, and its infamous reputation for being the second-largest flower trading city globally.
Including key materials like lace, denim, sik and cotton, the collection emobodies the perfcet fusion of tradition and innovation.
Sinead Gorey
Exploring a retrospective on youth and all things nostalgia, Sinead Gorey's Spring/Summer 2025 collection highlighted all things British prom. Set in a school gymnasium decked out in pink balloons and tinsel, for many of us, it was the prom we never got. With the brand's classic naughties motifs featuring stripes, corsets and the perfect reimagined Converse featuring knee-grazing models with wedges.
AHLUWALIA
'Home Sweet Home' was the name that Creative Director Priya Ahluwalia gave to her eponymous label's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which was peppered with references to her Indian-Nigerian heritage. There were, for example, floral and leaf prints that paid homage to the designer's grandparents' first home in the UK.
Inspired by Peruvian artist and writer Jorge Eielson, Ahluwalia enveloped the body in knotted, pleated and pulled fabrics - a nod to the 'emotional and physical pull of home'.
The designer is committed to sustainability, here reflected in the use of deadstock Chloe fabrics, which were re-engineered into sleek, tailored suits. Meanwhile, every look was gilded by yellow-gold, pearl-adorned jewellery from Pandora.
