While there remains much chatter about the difficulties of founding – and indeed maintaining – a young label in London, this season’s expansive schedule, with shows running from early morning until late into the evening, was proof that London Fashion Week remains buoyant four decades on, even if a few familiar names were missing from the line-up (this year marks the week’s 40th anniversary).
When it comes to young talent, there was plenty in the mix: the Harry Styles-invested label S.S. Daley showed its first dedicated womenswear collection, on Friday afternoon; LVMH Prize winner Nensi Dojaka returned to the schedule and debuted a collaboration with American behemoth Calvin Klein; while Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground held its first solo show after graduating Fashion East. More new-generation talent came from Chopova Lowena, Paolo Carzana and Aaron Esh, the latter working with stylist Katy England – a close collaborator with Lee Alexander McQueen – for the first time.
