If you want to make a Beatrix Potter pilgrimage, inspired by the excellent V&A exhibition on her world, you’ll have to come to the Lake District.
She was really a London girl – born in Kensington and raised in The Boltons – but she made the Lake District her home and from the ripe age of 47 lived there. Her home, Hill Top, is owned by the National Trust, and open to the public. It’s very small – just a couple of rooms and a scullery on the ground floor, and four rooms at the top, along with the garden, but it’s atmospheric and it’s here that she wrote the Tale of Samuel Whiskers based on her problems with rats in the place (none now; breathe on).
Tom Kitten, Jemima Puddleduck (who roamed the fields at the back of the house) and Jeremy Fisher, who hung out at the nearby lake, are situated on the area. This is Beatrix Potter country.
There is no shortage of places to stay in the immediate vicinity of Hill House, but you want somewhere good, within easy reach of it. So I give you Linthwaite House, which is on the other side of Lake Windermere, but, given decent weather, a short journey away by ferry, 20 minutes across the Lake, and a 30-40 minute walk from there. Or you can just take a cab – mine came to £36.
The hotel is set above Windermere, with a splendid view of the Lake. It’s relatively modern, and the grounds have been sympathetically reordered, with modern sculpture, an outdoor chess board and a pond. Within, it’s comfortable, bright and spacious – it’s not a country house aesthetic, but it’s been thoughtfully ordered for calm and relaxation.
Lots of people come here to go walking – self excepted; what they need at the end of their endeavours is a nice relaxing drawing room to look out at the lakes and have afternoon tea with a fire to drink cocktails round. It’s a welcoming environment; the staff are friendly and helpful.
You can stay in the hotel itself – and some rooms allow for dog owners to have their pets – where the rooms are pleasantly traditional. Or you can do as I did, and stay in one of the Fell Suites, modern buildings set in the grounds with big, full length ceilings to let in the maximum light, a big bedroom and sitting room and nicely appointed bathroom.
It’s an understated aesthetic – natural coloured carpets and furniture, wood-shave light shades – but with lots of light. Some rooms have a hot tub outside – good for teenagers; some have their own wood fire, which fills the place with lovely smell. All are thought through – big screen television, lots of cupboard space, an ironing board. They’re places where you can chill while reading your Tom Fisher and Two Naughty Kittens.
But the most memorable aspect of the hotel is Simon Rogan’s Henrock restaurant, which is wonderful. It’s not simple cooking; it’s thoughtful, painstaking and delicious. My smoked eel came glazed and diced on a bed of unctuous savoury custard; the beef tartare arrived deconstructed, in a little cylinder with globules of egg yolk. The Pekin duck had an intensely savoury sauce: fat breasts, with other meat in a little croquette. There was a memorable quince course before the dessert: tender fruit with sorbet, topped with a wonderful gingerbread foam. Yum.
The place would be even better if it weren’t for the annoying bar-room background music. But you can’t win them all. Oh, and breakfast is very good, and substantial, too.
You really do need to come by train; Avanti does a direct train to Oxenholme, and you change there for the Lake District line to Windermere (on first class there’s a very good breakfast). And book in advance; otherwise fares can be pricey.
leeucollection.com, with rates starting from £215 per room per night, breakfast included.
