As Mumbai’s fashion commentators, couturiers and creators came together last week at Lakme Fashion Week X FDCI, we saw stalwarts like Anamika Khanna revive tribal motifs, Rajesh Pratap Singh partner with an Argentinian polo brand, and JJ Valaya use royal travel fables as a narrative to work with. We also loved the sartorial elegance of Siddhartha Tytler and the dreamy Lucknow-esque motifs of Rajdeep Ranawat. Another highlight was Saaksha and Kinni’s summery swimwear collection.
Here is what we believe will influence wardrobes in the coming year:
Polo on point
Rajesh Pratap Singh X La Martina: The theatrics of having a fashion show at Mumbai’s race course, with elegant race horses trotting alongside models was thankfully not gimmicky. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s collaboration with Argentinian equestrian brand La Martina saw the polo trend in a resolutely couture avatar: tailored jackets, Jodhpur pants, thigh boots, buttons, epaulettes and equestrian leitmotifs, tailored to perfection for both men and women. The collection drew a parallel between Jaipur, India’s polo capital, with the design sensibilities of Rajesh Pratap Singh.
Models showcased these silhouettes with horses walking besidethem. We saw zardosi badges on jackets, hand block prints, elements of jacquard, silk and twill on shirts. The accessory du jour was the elegant neck scarf, tied jauntily around the neck.
With the polo trend seeing a massive resurgence in global fashion scenes, Rajesh Pratap Singh’s capsule collection gives it a dressier, more contemporary spin with a focus on layering, fabrics and more.
Sustainable tribes
JJV. Kapurthala by JJ Valaya: With every season of Lakme Fashion Week, the messaging of sustainable and responsible fashion consumption gets stronger. A case in point is this collection presented by design maven JJ Valaya as a bridge-to-luxury offering underpinned by the notions of sustainable fashion.
This delightful presentation was bathed in the travelogues of the Maharaja of Kapurthala. Minimalism, strategic accents and quirky embellishments were seen on kurta-inspired tunics with patch pockets. On a more dressy note, we saw a sharp black bandhgala suit paired with a striped shirt to add a fun element.
The collection used eco-friendly cloth fashioned from recycled PET bottles as well as R | Elan Kooltex fabric, which is perfect for India’s summery climes. For us, this collection stands out for making a statement on circular fashion, a cause that this fashion week has been championing for the past couple of years.
Tribal chic
Anamika Khanna: All eyes were on haute couturier Anamika Khanna this season as she pulled out all stops to showcase India’s tribal heritage in a rather chic interpretation. “The Bonda community of Odisha,” Anamika says, “is at the heart of this collection, where you will see the use of beads in pop neon colours, shells, indigenous neck rings in brass, all this in a host of delightful tribal weaves.”
The silhouettes showcased were anything but tribal taking on a stark urban identity with relaxed pants, flow coats, kaftans and dresses. We saw a generous use of denim in the designer’s collection, with lavish threadwork and embroidery splashed across pieces to keep the tribal inspiration alive. On the colour front, Anamika wisely juxtaposed pop coloured accessories along with white, pastel, red and pink. Given her fandom in the fashion industry, this was one of the most awaited shows of the season and her unique interpretation of the tribal trend was refreshing.
The print parade
Nizam by Rajdeep Ranawat: We loved this celebration of prints in Rajdeep’s collection evocatively named Nizam. We have followed the work of this designer for his artsy approach to motifs, a tad European, and generously desi. For this season’s collection, he sought his inspiration in the courtesans of the Awadhi courts of Lucknow. Silhouettes include flowing kurtas layered tactfully with opulent printed jackets, paired with high trousers. Capes and trousers formed a major part of his collection that featured motifs from Rajasthan, Kashmir, and Lucknow along with Mughal elements.
Pour homme
Checkmate by Siddhartha Tytler: Mumbai’s dapper brigade turned out in large numbers to see Delhi-based sartorialist Siddhartha Tytler’s chess-inspired collection. Siddhartha’s models showcased sherwani and suit silhouettes with effortless ease, with a black and white colour palette, tinged with hues of metal and pastel. The designer seems to have a mastery over the athleisure trend and this time was no exception. We saw dressy silhouettes give way to sporty chic looks normalising oversized jackets, sneakers and street-inspired attire.
Architectural and structured
You by Shantnu & Nikhil: When it comes to structure and architectural garments, the designer duo has mastered the game. Their collection this time was as tailored and structured as it gets and it truly piqued our interest. They have often showcased a military element in their clothes and the striking battalion jacket is an icon in fashion, if you will. This time, they continue their tradition of well defined shoulders, belted waists and gold, military-style trims.
Endless summer
Hana by Saaksha and Kinni: Fashion in India is becoming increasing ‘season agnostic’, especially in the southern peninsula where summer is through the year. A case in point is Saaksha and Kinni’s summery selection — and debut swimwear collection — for this season, with, at the heart of it the mandala motif. This culturally significant motif paired with luxurious quilt stitching manifests itself in beautiful swimwear. This collection of resort/swimwear beautifully incorporated ikat and block prints, juxtaposed with Western-style geometric lines and checks, making for a beautiful blend overall.
