A mythical land where the ancient Minoans had many of their settlements, palaces and places of worship, eastern Crete is an enchanting – and lesser explored – region where life is serenaded by the lap of waves on the brightly painted hulls of traditional fishing boats, and the Alpine-like jingle of bells as shepherds take their flocks to graze in high pastures. The scenery is laced with tiny hamlets that seem lost in time (in the best possible way) and golden, sand-lined coves lapped by turquoise waters, where it’s possible to laze all day without seeing a soul.
The unofficial capital of Crete’s east coast is the lively town of Agios Nikolaos, with its colourful labyrinth of shopping lanes, Venetian promenade and the legendary Lake Voulismeni at its centre where, according to mythology, the goddess Athena once bathed. Enjoy a leisurely meal in one of the laid-back tavernas around this mirror-clear pool and then follow roads fringed with sweet-scented wild fennel to Elounda. Despite briefly having a name as a swinging 60s hangout for the likes of Aristotle and Jackie Onassis, this fishing village – like the rest of this lovely region – is still surprisingly lowkey.
